With their wonderful trumpet flowers, petunias have a long tradition in our gardens. Different varieties diligently compete for the attention of the viewer. In summer, ideally there will be more flowers on each plant than leaves. Petunia Serfinia is a special breed that offers flowers even under less than ideal conditions. Read here what care drives this hybrid to bloom.
Growth and flowering
In the Brazilian native language, Petun means tobacco. The petunia is in fact also related to the tobacco plant. It originally comes from tropical South America. Her we alth of flowers brought her out into the world early on. The enthusiasm for this flowering miracle has now also produced hybrid varieties that thrive better in our latitudes. This also includes the Japanese breed Petunia Surfinia.
- standing varieties grow to a height of around 30 cm
- hanging varieties form tendrils up to one meter long
- are extremely keen to grow
- cope better with rain
- bloom within just 6 to 8 weeks
- large, funnel-shaped flowers
- Flowering time is from June
- plants grown earlier also bloom earlier
- large selection of strong flower colors
- Multi-colored flowers are also possible
Popular varieties
The surf line is available commercially in many different varieties. The visible difference is the color of the flowers. But the individual varieties also differ from each other in other characteristics, such as flower size, growth habit and sensitivity to cold. Below are some popular varieties sorted by flower color.
- White: Bright Dream, White,
- Blue: Blue, Sky Blue, Happy Sophia, Blue vein
- Red: Red, Ratio Red, Burgundy, Giant purple
- Yellow: Victorian Yellow, Yellow
- Pink: Hot red, Hot pin, Pink vein, Pastel, Repens Pink Star
- Violet: Amethyst, Purple, Purple var
- tricolor: Celebration Carnival (yellow, blue and red)
Location
All petunia varieties like sun and the warmth that comes with it. The hybrid variety Petunia Surfinia is no exception. Shady places disrupt their development due to a lack of light. These bloomers should be spared. Drops of rain every now and then are a natural part of an outdoor location. Surfinia copes with this much better than conventional varieties. However, a place protected from the rain is more beneficial for her and should be provided if possible. In the play of natural forces, hanging varieties are also at the mercy of the wind, which is very harsh on their long shoots. Since the wind unfortunately cannot be canceled, a wind-protected location must be found for this type of surfinia.
- loves it sunny and warm
- don't like shade, then threatens mildew
- Lack of light also inhibits flower formation
- the ideal location is protected from rain and wind
- only place outdoors in the frost-free season
Note:
A very sunny petunia delights on the one hand with a flood of flowers. On the other hand, she has to constantly be supplied with water. Watering should rarely be “forgotten” for a day.
Substrate
Anyone who enters a garden center is often amazed at the amount of soil mixtures on offer. A special substrate can be found for almost every type of plant, including petunia. This takes into account the expectations that this plant places on its soil. It should be a little sour, then she feels at home and comfortable in it. If you don't want to buy this usually more expensive ready-made mixture, you can easily create an acidic environment yourself. Normal potting soil serves as the basis, which is additionally enriched.
- normal potting soil as a base
- nutrient-rich and permeable
- add about the same amount of ericaceous soil
- pH value of 5.5 is optimal
Tip:
Pure potting soil has also proven effective for petunias, but good quality is essential here. Only then will it be good for the petunia.
Plants
Late spring is the right time to plant petunias. Only from mid-May onwards are the plants no longer exposed to the icy threat of frost. The hybrid Petunia Surfinia is less sensitive to frost. You can start the gardening season a little earlier. It usually survives any late night frosts well. Petunias appear more voluminous and impressive in the company of other petunias, which is why several plants are often planted in one container. However, their roots like to spread, so they should not be planted too closely. If several petunia species grow together, it is important to ensure that the varieties harmonize well with each other in terms of their requirements.
- 2 to 3 plants per hanging basket
- approx. 5 plants per large flower box
- Roots need space, don't plant too close together
- Planting distance should be at least 15 cm
- they like water but not waterlogging
- Drainage layer in the vessel is useful
- Use nutrient-rich, permeable and slightly acidic soil
- Add slow-release fertilizer
- add compost for upright varieties outdoors
Tip:
Planters with a water reservoir are ideal for thirsty petunias. You can use it to provide yourself with water for a few days. So you can go on your own weekend trip with a clear conscience.
Pouring
Watering, pouring and pouring again. Morning, evening and every day. At least in summer, on the particularly hot days. Every plant lover has to be prepared for this if they want to bring this plant to full bloom. The petunia usually recovers quickly from a short dry phase. If it has to endure several dry seasons, it will be permanently weakened and magically attract diseases and pests.
- water regularly and abundantly
- twice a day in high temperatures
- morning and/or evening
- never water in the blazing midday heat
- Use soft water, rainwater is an option
- enrich hard water with some iron fertilizer
- Pour water on the ground or in the water reservoir
- do not wet the leaves or flowers when watering
Note:
The ball of soil should always be moist. When the soil dries out, yellow leaves follow in no time. The moisture must be kept even with a sense of proportion; under no circumstances should it turn into waterlogging.
Fertilize
Petunias are heavy-feeding plants. They use their roots to continually suck nutrients from the soil around them. You should therefore expect a nutrient-rich mixture right from the start. Compost contributes to a secure supply, as does long-term fertilizer. Flowering plant fertilizer controls the rest.
- nutrient-rich soil
- Incorporate long-term fertilizer
- Flowering plant fertilizer 1-2 times a week
- during the entire season
Tip:
The best way to give flowering plant fertilizer to the petunia is through the irrigation water.
Cutting
All green shoots and brightly colored flowers of the Surfinia are welcome, nothing needs to be cut away. However, all dead parts of the plant should be removed consistently and promptly. On the one hand, the plant only looks much more beautiful with plump flowers. On the other hand, removing dead flowers always produces new flowers and shoots.
- remove spent flowers and thus stimulate new growth
- Pnip off shoot tips if stronger branching is desired
Petunias, which have completed their flowering work and are allowed to rest in winter quarters, are now also asking for the secateurs.
- all petunias that are overwintered
- cut back before inserting
- shorten all shoots to a length of about 20 cm
- remove thin and weak shoots in spring
Propagate
Surfinias are hybrid plants that do not produce seeds or do not produce seeds that can germinate. The propagation of Surfinia via seeds is therefore not possible. They can be easily propagated via cuttings. And it works like this:
- Cut off one or more shoots from the plant. These should be about 15 cm long.
- Remove any flowers and buds still attached.
- Also leave only two sheets left.
- Place the cuttings in a glass of water so that they can root first.
- Pot the cuttings once some roots have formed.
Tip:
After planting, regularly pinch off the shoot tips of the young petunia to encourage branching. This will give you a nice, dense growth.
Diseases and pests
Breeding Petunia Sufinia has produced a more robust plant, but this variety is still susceptible to pests. Therefore, pay close attention to possible signs so that you can react quickly. The following pests and diseases particularly often threaten petunia:
- Aphids
- Whitefly
- Powdery mildew
- various viruses
If the petunia is attacked by viruses, parts of the plant gradually die. Unfortunately, there is no effective remedy for this. Something can and should be done about other diseases and pests. If the plant is not treated appropriately, it will become susceptible to other diseases that can ultimately bring it down. It can also infect other plants.
- Stinging nettle broth helps with aphids
- Soap solution is effective against aphids and whiteflies
- Yellow panels attract whiteflies
- Milk-water mixture in a ratio of 1:9 fights mildew
If you don't find any pests on your petunia, yellow leaves could also indicate a nutrient deficiency. Iron fertilizer quickly provides relief against so-called chlorosis.
Note:
Sick petunias that you can no longer save should never end up in the compost heap.
Wintering
The fast-growing petunias are usually cultivated as annual plants. But it is certainly possible to overwinter the plant and make it bloom again next year. Since the petunia varieties are not always hardy, they have to survive the cold season indoors.
- bright and cool room is ideal
- Room temperature should be 5 to 10 degrees
- cut all shoots back heavily
- about 10 cm long
- have to go to winter quarters before frost
- water regularly even during winter rest
- but only with small amounts of water
