In general, fruit trees are cultivated free-standing. But there is a tried and tested, special way of growing: growing fruit on trellises. Espaliers are a lattice-shaped structure made of wood or metal to which the shoots of fruit trees are tied. With the help of this trellis, the branches are brought into the desired growth form and held there. In most cases, trellises are built against a wall or wall to make better use of the heat. But there is also the option of growing free-standing espalier fruit.
Location
For fruit trees that are grown in two dimensions, the correct location or orientation is one of the most important factors when growing them. Wall espaliers are preferably placed in front of east or west walls so that the flower buds are not heated up too much by the sun on a south wall in late winter and sprout prematurely. To make optimal use of the lighting conditions, plant free-standing espalier trees in a north-south direction.
- Wall trellis: on east wall or west wall
- free-standing trellis: in north-south orientation
- sheltered from the wind
- sunny to partially shaded
Suitable types of fruit
So that they can grow well on espaliers, only those fruit trees that have been grafted onto a weakly growing rootstock should be selected. The various types of pome fruit and stone fruit are suitable for cultivation:
- Apple
- Apricot
- Pear
- Cherry
- Peach
- Plum
- Quince
For apples, the rootstock called M9 is usually used. Different quince rootstocks have proven successful for pears. If you are thinking about growing espaliered fruit in your garden, you should definitely seek advice from a tree nursery or nursery. In autumn you will find a wide range of fruit trees there.
Tip:
Grapes, kiwis and blackberries, which are not actually classic types of espalier fruit, are also popular on espaliers.
Suitable tree shapes
The space available is always important for espalier cultivation. In addition to the type of fruit, the tree shape and growth must also be adjusted. In addition to spindle bushes, a low or half trunk, tall trunks can also be selected as a growth form for a trellis. Slender or small bush shapes are particularly suitable for two meter high trellises.
Espalier and training methods
A trellis is usually made of wood or metal. It should already have the shape in which the tree will be trained. In many cases, wires can also be stretched to which the branches are tied. Stable cross slats made of wood or metal always provide better support - especially for heavily laden fruit branches.
- horizontal palmette (horizontal branches in several levels)
- two-armed string tree (only two horizontal branches, simple palmette shape)
- Fan trellis (fan-shaped spread of branches)
- informal trellis (battens as desired)
- U-Trellis (two branches are first guided horizontally, then vertically)
Pears and apples can be grown easily with horizontal branches on a horizontal palmette. Peaches, plums, apricots and sour cherries, on the other hand, require a looser structure. That's why it's best to grow them on a fan trellis. Horizontal battens are also possible if the branches are tied at a slight angle (angle around 45 degrees).
Build a free-standing trellis
Free-standing trellises are usually built from posts with cross battens or cross wires. The lowest cross wire or batten is attached to the height of the first side shoot from the ground. However, this should be at least 50 cm above ground level. The top branch should not be more than two meters high. This is the only way the care and harvesting work can be carried out from the ground. Depending on the growth form of the tree, the distance between the individual crossbars is around 40 cm, sometimes a little less. Only use weather-resistant types of wood such as chestnut, robinia or larch. In order to withstand wind and weather, these types of wood do not need to be painted or oiled.
Simple trellis for a tree
- 2 x wooden post with tip Ø 10 cm (length at least 2 m)
- Crossbars (approx. 25 x 25 x 2000 mm)
- Screws
Drive the two wooden stakes into the ground about 60 cm apart. The piles must be driven deep enough to provide sufficient stability. The slats are then cut to the appropriate length and screwed parallel to the posts. In a fan trellis, all the slats fan out from one point.
Stable trellis for several trees
If several fruit trees are to be tied to a longer trellis, it makes sense to concrete the posts at a distance of around 1.5 meters using a post base.
- Wooden post square (length at least 185 cm)
- matching post supports
- Concrete
- Screws
- Crossbars (approx. 30 x 30 x 2000 mm)
After the posts have been set in concrete and aligned, the crossbars are attached. For long trellises, it is worth cutting two pieces of wood as spacers onto which the slats are placed and screwed so that you don't have to measure again every time.
Tip:
The most important thing when bending the branches is the right time. Young, unwoody shoots are still flexible about 10 to 20 cm from the tip. Longer branches quickly become woody and break off when they are removed.
Floor
Fruit trees generally have very delicate roots, so it is important to plant them in a spot in the garden that is not prone to waterlogging. A well-moisture-retaining, moderately nutrient-rich soil is optimal.
- profound
- humos
- well drained
Planting
Fruit trees can be planted between October and March. However, the prerequisite for planting is that the weather is frost-free. Autumn planting has the advantage that the tree has more time to form new roots. This is why these fruit trees sprout earlier than trees that are planted in spring. Pay attention to quality when purchasing your espalier fruit tree. You should not buy trees with canker sores, poorly healed grafting areas or sparsely branched specimens. You can get particularly robust trees from a tree nursery. We are also happy to provide you with good advice if you have any questions.
No matter whether you have decided on a pre-cultivated espalier fruit tree or want to grow a normal young tree yourself, the planting is the same for both variants. Do not use wires or other rigid materials to tie down. These lead to constrictions after a short time. Sisal ropes or rubber bands are better.
- Time: Autumn (frost-free day)
- Dig out the planting hole (twice the width and depth of the root ball)
- the roots must not be bent
- Loosen the sole with the digging fork
- possibly fill in sand or gravel as drainage
- Distance to the trellis: about 20 cm
- Add excavated material with compost
- Watering root balls
- For potted products, tear open the outer root layer with your hands
- Insert tree
- Fill planting hole
- come up
- water thoroughly
- possibly create a pouring rim
- Tie the leading shoot to the trellis (with coconut rope or rubber band)
- tie lower shoots horizontally (or other growth form)
Tip:
Many fruit trees, such as apples, cannot fertilize themselves and therefore need a second tree nearby to provide pollen.
Plant cutting
The training of the young tree begins when it is planted with the correct planting pruning. The only difference between the espalier forms is the arrangement of the branches. With horizontal palmettes, the branches are raised at an angle of 90 degrees (i.e. horizontal). With a slanting palmette or a fan trellis, the branch angle is around 45 degrees. The planting cut is carried out either directly when planting in autumn or at the latest in early spring.
- Align 2 strong side branches with the lowest slat
- for pears and apples horizontally
- for all other tree species at an angle of 45 degrees (diagonal of the individual compartments)
- the two branches form the leading branches of the lowest floor
- the fixation takes place relatively close to the trunk
If it is an early espaliered fruit tree that already has several tiers, the remaining side branches (tiers) are also connected in this way. With normal fruit trees, the tree must first be established. For two-armed espalier trees, the main shoot is unnecessary and can therefore be cut off just above the two side branches. The following applies to all espalier trees for which additional tiers are to be built:
- remove all remaining side branches
- guide the tip of the central shoot upwards
Care
Compared to the traditional cultivation of a fruit tree, growing espalier fruit only means more work during planting. Since only a few branches are specifically supported in espaliered fruit, cutting is very clear and easy to carry out. Of course, espaliered fruit trees also require regular pruning in dry times, additional water and occasional fertilizer.
Pouring
Freshly planted fruit trees need to be watered regularly at first so that their roots can spread well in the soil. Older, well-established specimens are only watered during longer dry periods or in high heat. Make sure that waterlogging never occurs.
Fertilize
In addition to light and water, a balanced supply of nutrients is necessary for he althy growth. In the first year after planting, there is no need to additionally fertilize as long as compost or humus has been added to the soil. In the following years, the tree is supplied with a complete fertilizer in spring, which is worked into the soil and then covered with a layer of well-rotted compost.
Build-up cut for the classic palmette
In the following growth period, the apple or pear tree is not cut and is allowed to spread unhindered. The first training cut takes place again between late autumn and early spring when the fruit tree is resting. Now the next floor is being built.
- Cut the middle shoot at the height of the second batten
- at least three well-developed eyes (buds) must be preserved underneath
- The new side branches and the extension of the central shoot develop from this
Over the course of the year, the new side shoots are guided away from the trunk horizontally or at an angle of 45 degrees on the first floor and attached. The shoot that forms from the top eye is directed vertically upwards and forms the new middle shoot. Over the years, several floors are built in this way until the tree reaches its final height of a maximum of two meters. Then the central shoot is cut just above the last pair of branches so that the tree no longer grows further in height, but only in width. While the tiers are being built, the older side branches are also being trained. These have now formed secondary shoots that have tufts of leaves at the base.
- cut the soft (this year's) secondary shoots after the 4th leaf (early summer)
- remove secondary shoots that are too close together
- Fruit shoots remain uncut for about four years
Conservation cut
Once the tree is fully established, annual maintenance measures ensure a good harvest of aromatic fruits. These include:
- cut back old fruit shoots to three to four buds (February to March)
- possibly redirect to a favorable shoot at the top
- shorten the length increase in apples, pears and quinces in March with light, smooth bark on the central shoot and side branches
- For apricots, peaches, plums and cherries, this cut is only done after the harvest
Tip:
With apricots, cut fruit shoots that have been worn down by half after harvesting.
Variety recommendation
Not all types of trees are equally suitable for espalier cultivation. We have had good experiences with the following varieties:
Old apple varieties
- Alkmene: good aroma, autumn variety
- Auralia: high yield, good taste
- Red Berlepsch: storage variety, very aromatic
- Gold Parma: tried and tested variety, good taste
- Beautiful from Nordhausen: regional, robust apple variety, storable
New apple varieties
- Gerlinde: hardly susceptible to scab, resistant autumn variety
- Rebella: resistant autumn apple, less susceptible to scab
- Rubinola: lasts a long time on the tree, robust
- Santana: red autumn variety, good taste, very resistant
- Topaz: robust storage variety with a sour taste
Pears
- Alexander Lucas: late ripening, stores well
- Clapp's favorite: summer pear with a fine aroma
- Countess of Paris: robust pear variety, stores well
- Gute Luise: tasty autumn pear with good storage properties
- Delicious of Charneau: robust autumn pear, adaptable
Quinces
- Bereczki: pear quince from Hungary
- Radonia: pear quince from Radebeul
- Vranja: pear quince from Serbia
- Wudonia: apple quince from Wurzen
Peach
- Bebedicte: white, juicy pulp, resistant to curl disease
- Fruteria: red variety with white flesh, robust
- Red Haven: proven variety, yellow flesh, very juicy and sweet
- Revita: pink flowers, white flesh, robust against curl disease
- Red vineyard peach: pink blossom, red flesh, very robust
Apricots
- Compacta: medium-sized, juicy fruit, slow growing
- Harlayne: insensitive to Monilia, high-yielding
- Harogame: robust against Monilia, beautifully colored fruits
- Kuresia: very aromatic, high resistance to Sharka virus
Wintering
There is nothing special to consider when overwintering, as long as the espaliered fruit trees are in a protected place. The roots of young trees are protected from the ground freezing by a thick layer of humus or mulch. However, special attention must be paid to the flower. In late frosts there is a risk that the flowers will freeze. A fleece that is spread over the tree overnight provides limited protection. However, it is better to choose a late-flowering fruit variety.
Conclusion
A suitable method for growing fruit trees even in small gardens is to cultivate them on a trellis. The trees take up very little space and provide the gardener with particularly aromatic, sun-ripened fruit. Although espalier fruit growing is a little more time-consuming than normal cultivation, the method is still easy to learn and use, even for inexperienced gardeners.
